San Basilio de Palenque - Exploring Afro-Colombian Heritage

If you ever visited Cartagena or saw a picture of the city, you have probably seen colorfully dressed women with beautiful smiles selling fruits and candy in the streets in one of those photos. They are called Palenqueras. But what's there besides them making an awesome photo motif, what's their story and the story of their hometown San Basilio de Palenque? What's behind it is the most incredible history of resilience and the fight for freedom of the African groups that arrived in chains to the new continent. 

While Cartagena is quite a well-known place to visit in Colombia, not many people have heard of San Basilio de Palenque before, even though it’s just about 50km away from the city. This historical town can be easily visited on a day trip, and it’s the place to be for anyone wanting to learn about an important part of the Colombian and world history. Here you will get to know the culture of the Palenqueros, and learn about the impressive history of the emancipation of former slaves. This village is definitely worth a visit!



Plaza de San Basilio de Palenque 
 

Where is San Basilio de Palenque located?

You will find San Basilio de Palenque, one of the most important historical villages of Colombia, 50 km Southeast of Cartagena, in the foothills of the mountain range Montes de Maria. It is the first town in the Americas that freed itself from slavery, founded by escaped African captives. In the early 1600’s they opposed oppression and due to that, the Town of San Basilio represents the African emancipation from servitude in America until today. 


Location: San Basilio de Palenque

People living there are known for their rich and unique culture, influenced heavily by their African heritage. In 2008, the small town and its cultural space were declared an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by the UNESCO. 

What is the history of San Basilio de Palenque?

During the seventeenth century, Cartagena was one of the main hubs for the slave trade in Colombia. Some slaves escaped oppression and founded walled communities - so-called “Palenques” -  in the mountains and jungles surrounding Cartagena, which offered shelter to them. Most of the other secret fort villages were eventually found and destroyed by the Spanish. San Basilio is the only Palenque town that survived and that still exists today. Due to the isolation of the refuge, the inhabitants could preserve their unique cultural heritage for a long time. However, outside of San Basilio, Palenque people were discriminated against many times and became victims of stereotyping which often led them to deny their traditional customs. With the recognition of the UNESCO, a new pride in their culture emerged and now values, traditions, and language are embraced by the community.

Who was Benkos Biohó?

The founder father of San Basilio de Palenque, Domingo Benkos Biohó, originally from the Bijago islands of Guinea-Bissau in West Africa was born in the Biohó kingdom, located in the Guinea-Bissau region. He was likely of noble birth or held a position of leadership within his community, as he demonstrated exceptional leadership skills later in life. In the late 16th century, during the height of the transatlantic slave trade, Benkos Biohó was captured by Portuguese slave traders. He was forcibly taken from his homeland and sold into slavery. His capture and enslavement were part of the widespread European practice of raiding African villages and capturing individuals to supply the demand for labor in the Americas.

There is a mystery around the history of his escape from Cartagena. Some say he tried to flee two times, others say it was only at the third attempt that he could escape. You may be told that the boat he was on during the ride on the Magdalena River cantered, or that he got away along with his wife and other slaves during night time. In the end, the important part of the story is that he managed to elude slavery. After escaping, he established the first "Palenque" in 1603 and helped other slaves to flee from oppression.  Palenques were settlements founded by escaped slaves (known as cimarrones) in Latin America, particularly in the Caribbean and northern regions of South America. These communities were established by enslaved Africans who fled from Spanish colonial plantations and settlements in search of freedom. Palenques served as sanctuaries where former slaves could live independently and preserve their African culture and traditions.

Biohó was a charismatic and strategic leader. He organized a network of palenques (communities of escaped slaves) and coordinated raids against Spanish plantations to free more slaves. His efforts were instrumental in establishing a strong, independent African community in the New World. In the early 17th century, the Spanish colonial authorities were increasingly troubled by the persistent resistance and raids orchestrated by Benkos Biohó and his followers from San Basilio de Palenque. Biohó's successful establishment of a free and fortified community of escaped slaves posed a significant threat to the colonial order and the institution of slavery.

Despite the formal agreement, the Spanish authorities never intended to honor their promises to Benkos Biohó. The treaty was merely a strategic move to pacify the palenque temporarily and reduce the threat posed by Biohó and his followers. The Spanish feared the example Biohó set for other slaves and the potential for widespread rebellion. In 1619, the Spanish authorities, seeking to eliminate the threat once and for all, treacherously broke the peace agreement. Biohó was captured during a visit to Cartagena, where he believed he was going to discuss issues related to the treaty. Instead, he was arrested and imprisoned. In 1621, Benkos Biohó was publicly executed in Cartagena. The execution was intended as a warning to other slaves and potential rebels, demonstrating the consequences of defying Spanish authority. However, rather than suppressing the spirit of resistance, Biohó's execution further cemented his legacy as a symbol of the struggle for freedom and justice.

A fun fact about San Basilio de Palenque foundation

The Spanish believed that the town belonged to the saint that gave the name to the place, in this case, the saint San Basilio. So they named it Palenque de San Basilio. In opposition, the Palenqueros named their town San Basilio de Palenque, indicating that the Saint belongs to the town and not the other way around. They argued that their home didn’t belong to anyone. In the end, the Palenqueros won the argument and so today the town is called San Basilio de Palenque.

Who are the famous Palenqueras?

Today the colorfully dressed women with their bright smiles, are more widely known among tourists than the founder father of San Basilio. But you might wonder, why they are selling their goods in Cartagena if they originally come from a small town about 50km outside of it.


Palenquera selling sweets in the streets of San Basilio de Palenque

In the past, San Basilio de Palenque was mainly isolated from other cities. So it was hard for the Palenqueros to make a living. In order to earn their income, they smuggled seeds out of Cartagena to cultivate their food and the women also prepared sweets. Then they would walk the long and exhausting way to Cartagena in order to sell those traditional sweets. Throughout the years, many Palenqueras moved to the city, but they keep up with their customs until today.


Typical Cocadas (sweets sold by Planequeras)

What is unique about Palenque Culture?

The roots of the unique culture of San Basilio de Palenque lies in their African ancestry. It includes social and religious practices as well as music and language that have been recognized internationally as intangible legacy of the Humanity by the UNESCO.

Language

The Palenque language is the only Spanish based creole language in Latin America. It is a mixture of Spanish, French, English, Portuguese, and Bantu languages from Africa. The reason for this mix of languages goes back to the fact, that the slaves transported to South America by boat, were never just from one country or region. They spoke different languages and dialects so it was more difficult for them to communicate with each other. With this strategy, the Spanish tried to undermine revolts. Palenque, the language evolved from this, is only spoken by around 3.000 people and is part of the Palenqueros’ cultural identity.

Music

The traditional Palenquero music, like Champeta and Son Palenquero, is based on percussion instruments, like Tambores (drums). In the past, these instruments were mainly used for communication. Through playing the Drums, the people were informed, when a baby was born or if someone passed away. The Afro-Colombian music in Palenque can be explored by visiting the popular musician Rafael Cassiani Cassiani (listen here) or by going to the studio of the band Kombilesa Mi. The first one is a great artist of the traditional Son Palenquero genre playing Maríbula (a typical instrument), while the latter developed a new music style, mixing traditional and new elements using Spanish as well as Palenquero for their lyrics.


Palenqueros making music

Lumbalú

The Lumbalú is a traditional funeral ritual that is still celebrated in San Basilio de Palenque. If someone passes away in the town, the people believe that the soul of that person will return home during the next 9 days, every day at 6 am and 5.30 pm. So they will be there at these hours holding death watches, singing, and dancing, while they are grieving for that person. The death watchers are usually dressed in white and light a candle for the person who died.

Must-sees and what to do in San Basilio:

The statue of Benkos Biohó

In the center of the village, you will find an impressive statue of Benkos Biohó, the founding father of San Basilio. His statue embodies freedom and the opposition to slavery by him breaking his chains and reaching out to his motherland, West Africa.


Statue of Benkos Biohó

Belleza La Reina del Kongo

At this hair salon, you can learn about traditional hairstyles and braids. During the 17th century, it is said that the slaves used hairdos to communicate in Cartagena, braiding escape routes and maps onto their scalp. Furthermore, they used their thick braids to smuggle plant seeds out of Cartagena to cultivate the land near San Basilio.  

Learn Palenquero

Of course, you will not be able to speak Palenquero after a day trip - after all, it is a distinct language. But we encourage you to get taught at least a few words to appreciate their culture! Asina ria for example means Good Morning.

A place for foodies

Taste the cuisine in Palenque, which fuses African, Caribbean, European and Latin American ingredients and preparation uniquely. On a trip to the town, you should not miss this and try some of their delicious dishes. There even exists a cookbook created by a group of Palenqueros containing typical recipes of the Palenquero cuisine. In 2004, this cookbook was recognized as the Best Cookbook in the World by the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards in Beijing. You can download a PDF version of the cookbook here (English available). Their meals typically include fried fish, coconut rice, and mango salsa. You should also try their sweets and dessert, for example, Enyucado and Cocada de coco. 


Typical Lunch in San Basilio

Located close to Cartagena and being that important for not only Colombia’s but the world's history, visiting San Basilio de Palenque is worth it. More than that, you will once again experience Colombia’s cultural diversity. If you want to go on a relaxed trip, without worrying about transportation and missing out on anything, you can also go on a tour to San Basilio de Palenque with us, have a local guide, try the traditional dishes, take a boxing lesson, play and sing their music and getting to know the history and the culture of this stunning town in detail.

 

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Sources:
https://www.semana.com/especiales/articulo/marzo-1621-brla-muerte-del-rey-negro/65762-3
https://theculturetrip.com/south-america/colombia/articles/a-brief-history-of-san-basilio-de-palenque-cartagena/
https://www.colombia.co/en/colombia-country/environment/caribbean-region/san-basilio-de-palenque-first-free-town-africans-americas/
https://www.elcolombiano.com/blogs/eshoradeviajar/como-llegar-a-san-basilio-de-palenque-el-ultimo-poblado-que-recuerda-la-llegada-de-los-africanos-a-america/218
 

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